B and Kat left the Oasis at 6:15, Z would follow by bus. We wandered through the quiet streets of Logrono, the only other folks were pilgrims, some of whom were familiar faces.
As we were heading out of the city center, an elderly woman approached Kat and told her that the safer way was across the street and straight ahead. She grabbed her arm, and led her across the street. Go figure: a little lady helping Kat across the street.
We went through the bike lanes and gorgeous parks of Logrono, meeting up with Sebastian and Carolina by the lake full of ducks and hopeful fly fishers. We paused a bit at the hut of Marcelino, a popular Camino figure who gave out stamps, free biscuits, apples, stones (sins to be carried and left to be absolved along the Way), and staffs.
We left Logrono, a bull bidding us well (is that another sign for B to move here? Durham is also the bull…), and we had to suffer through the unsightly views of winert after winery. Oh, how our eyes hurt seeing the luscious green grapes decorating the rolling hills.
We soon came across the village of Navarette, where Kat needed to get her cortado fix. Navarette is also famous for its stunning cathedral, modest on the outside and stunning on the inside.
It is also home to brilliant potters who use the rich red clay to create their wares. It was a good thing we can carry anything more or we would have bought up the square.
We stopped in Ventosa to have our Fantas and salami sandwiches we had prepared the night before, the less expensive way to eat. We were soon joined by the Portugese man and his Slovakian companion, and the two German women (one of whom had taken the bus the day before). Because of Kat’s awesome iPhone app and guidebook, we could share with them that in the next town, the Albergue de Peregrino Najera had finally shut down after weeks of bed bug infestations. The only other one had ten spaces, so Z made a reservation at the Hostal Hispano, more expensive but hopefully bug free. Clean, simple, and totally fine.
Four km away, we saw a stone building from which many pilgrims were leaving, so of course we went to see. A man offered us freshly cut melon. We threw a small donation and entered this cool hut-like stone building. The man was playing his guitar, explaining that he saw the edifice on his way to Santiago and returned. He was spending three days there, offering pilgrims a cool shade and water and painting the stones. After a rendition of Marley’s I Shot the Sheriff, we were off.
We had a bit of a mix up meeting each other at first. We ventured to the supermarket, the largest one we went to so far. We bought salami, Jamon Iberico, and Edam for sandwiches, chips, and Coke – delicious and simple (we know we are drinking lots of soda, but our bodies need the sugar and Coke can kill small bacteria, right?)
We also bought pastries, nuts, and fruit for the morning. A rest, a shower, dinner in bed. 30km today through the vineyards of Spain is not easy work.