Since Kat and Z had a restful 3-hour nap yesterday afternoon, they weny to bed later anddecided to have breakfast at the albergue before tackling the rest of the mountain. B, who conked out by 10:30, met up with Bernie, who had paid for our dinner last night, at 6.
It is an incredible experience to walk through the mountains that time of day. The stars are still out, and only a few animals call out in the fresh, crisp air. The sun begins to wake, bursting through the sky.
We chatted as we walked. Bernie is a kind-hearted, mischievous soul with a big family who lives everywhere in the world.
We descended further and quickly found the charming town of Molinaseca. After a quick pit stop, we continued further, a bit uphill (of course) and much downhill. It was a beautiful walk to be surrounded by Nature. The downhill, whether on trail or large slabs of slate, requires concentration.
On our way into Pontefreda over the bridge, we found Gemma, the Korean-Canadian from Toronto, who said she had to sleep outside in Molinaseca last night because the albergue was full.
B and Bernie got to the one albergue early and since it didn’t open until one, they put their packs down and went in search of breakfast. In the cutest little square was a churreria, known for irs churros and chocolate. They also served fresh-squeezed orange juice, a more common (and far more delicious and healthy) find in Spain . This place did not disappoint. Best churros.
Bernie went in search of the internet to book her ticket to Dublin (fancy that) to visit her nephew. While B waited for Kat and Z, she met up with a nicr Italian man who has been travessing along the same time. Today was his last day, as he had down the road to Santiago last year, and this year he was completing the first part. He looked very happy and satisfied.
Kat and Z had hung around chatting with the hostelero and stopped for breakfast. We all then showered, and when the albergue opened, we were happy to know that it was four people to a room. Perfect.
Or so we thought. They let B check Bernie in, but not Kat and Z, and wouldn’t let us switch places. As it turned out, Bernie had to take the train to Santiago today to catch her flight to Dublin. We considered taking off for another 15km, but considering the heat (the sun is super strong at 4pm), we decided to do more tomorrow.
We went to a lovely restaurant across from the castle, enjoying a 12€ pilgrim menu of paella, lasagna, fish, chicken, and homemade desserts, such as flan, mousse, and tiramisu. It was hard not think of Monty Python while staring at the castle.
Unfortunately, we had to say farewell to Bernie. We are going to miss this free spirit, but know we will see her again. After a short rest, cooling our feet in the pool with a Spanish Englishman and a Denmark guy with the hope of walking from Santiago to Finisterre in one day (80km plus?). Agnes, the sweet Hungarian, is also bunking with us.
We then ventured into the castle (free on Wed). It was spectacular. Women, apparently, spent half their lives pregnant.
Ponferrada was a Celtic city and now famed for its Templar history (also has a cannabis store).
Bernie had earlier recounted the story of the Templar Knights, whose old castle sits in town. According to these accounts, the Knights had created one of thefirst banking systems when pilgrims would deposit money with them and they give pilgrims credit to use along the way without fear of getting robbed carrying lots of money. As the Knights grew in wealth and prestige, the King of France devised a plan to take back some of that wealth by attacking the Templar castles.
The Knights heard of this plan and averted the attack by sending their treasures on a flotilla. That day is the origin of Friday the 13th. To this day, the wherebouts of the famed treasures of the Knights remain a mystery.
King Philip had the head Templar monk captured and under torture, the monk “confessed” to crimes of hereticism and the like. The pope was pressured to denounce the powerful Templar Knights. Before his execution, the monk declared that the king and the pope would be in hell in a year’s time. Not 12 months later, the two passed away.
It is pretty incredible to walk on the same stones of these honorable knights. Saying farewell to a friend, congratulating to a fellow pilgrim for completion of his journey, and looking forward to what comes next. all traditions that have come before and will continue.