What time is it?
Early.
When do you want to eat dinner?
A little later.
That is how time is measured here on the Camino. The only times you really look at a clock is in the morning (why are we waking up at 4:30?), when you arrive at your destination (5 hours, 23km, yeah!), and before bedtime (how long will I sleep before snorer #3 wakes me up?).
How far is it?
10 km
15 km
12.75 km
How far is it?
Not too far.
This is how distance is measured here on the Camino. According to Kat’s iPhone app, it may be 25km, her guidebook 28km. The Canadian guidebook may be 30km, the Italian 24 km. No one really knows, even the “official” Spanish guide is different from the signs on the Way.
Today we woke up really early and walked for a very long time, had breakfast kinda early in the lovely town of Palas de Rei, a key stop on the Camino. For Americans, eating doughnuts with a knife and fork is so…civilized.
It was a beautiful walk through little hamlets, passing gorgeous little churches, and greeting families on their holiday. B arrived in Melide in great anticipation, not just because of archaelogical evidence that people have lived here for 4,000 yeats, but because this place is famous for its pulperias…octopus.
B put her pack down at the Albergue Municipal, happy to be near the front, space assured. She waited at the nearby bar for Kat and Z’s packs that were being delivered (no bar hopping in search of them like the last time, but with Kat’s back giving her some trouble, this was a good solution). Of course, being Camino time, the bag weren’t there yet. Vans of packs would arrive…
Is this from Ligonde?
No.
Do you know what time the bags will arrive?
Soon.
Of course. And they finally did, a little longer after soon.
Kat and Z had been chatting it up with familiar faces and joined B and Alex who were waiting for the albergue to open. As usual, we checked in, showered in our open showers, and went off in search of food.
We went to the famous Pulperia Ezekiel for a plate of their pulpo, gambas de ajillos (shrimp in garlic and olive oil), and the most amazing langostinos). The place is also famous for its wine served in ceramic cups. Of course, we had to wait for a very, very
Very
Very
Very
Long time to even have our tables cleared.
The restaurants here are never in a rush, even with a crowd of people. Servers rush around all day, but you have to be patient. On the other hand, you are not rushed, and you can really take your time to enjoy and socialize. No one shoves a bill under your nose, trying to get the tables turned.
You wait, eat, wait, order more, chat, drink, and eat. And the food is well worth it.
Not focusing on numbers (great for B, who everyone knows now cannot count) is a lesson that keeps repeating itself on the Camino. Yes, there are bills to be paid and birthdays to celebrate; one cannot and should not escape from the responsibilities of life (do we not have a responsibility to contribute to society if we have the ability?), but at the end of the day, no one is counting.
How have you lived?
Pretty darn good.