An early night meant an early start. By 5, B was up. Kat and Z had a more fitful night listening to this guy with the strangest, loud snore that. Kat was also woken to the wind blowing the shutters open over her head.
A breakfast of toasted crackers, butter, and preserves was enjoyed with the other pilgrims, including Rob, a young chap from South Wales who was convinced his body is not made for the Camino. Two guys from Toronto were also chatty, one a trained musician but ended up in construction and just quit his job to return to his passion (a hearty congratulations for his courage), and the other a teacher of English for private corporations in Madrid.
Kat stopped for her espresso (of course), and we started off. We came across the fountain of Bodeas Irache, which had free water in one tap and red wine flowing from the other.
It was a cloudy, breezy day, perfect for walking. B met up with the kids, three boys from Spain doing part of the Camino with their grandfather. She hung out with Miguel, a sweet 11-year old and then caught up with his 13-year old brother, Javier. B was comforted to know someone understood her Spanish. She was impressed beyond words by their maturity. A Spanaird soon joined, and the two started talking about fantasy books and movies so fast, B could not keep up. Thankfully, Linda, a teacher from Italy, also joined and her Spanish was more at the level of B’s. Turns out her great-grandmother was named Belinda.
Through rolling hills of olive trees, we arrived in Los Arcos. B arrived a bit earlier, so she went to the little shop for some ham, crackers, and a peach. She sat outside the Albergue Casa de la Abuela, meeting a group of Spanairds. She greeted some familiar faces walking by, and was overjoyed to be reunited with Kat and Z, who had lunched on bocadillos with chorizo st Villamayor de Monjardin.
The albergue, aptly named for “grandmother,” is wonderful. Clean rooms, clean, modern bathrooms, a proper kitchen equipped with everything. It felt like home. A far cry from yesterday, but still at 8€, the owners are incredibly thoughtful and considerate. Use of their laptop, free wifi, and the owner even did our laundry for us. He also gave free treats from the vending machine for two tired young pilgrims. Centrally located, this albergue is relatively new and highly recommended. We have concluded that the smaller albergues are better maintained and charming.
We decided, given last night’s fiasco to keep it simple, buy some baguettes and cheese and fruit, and call it a night in the care of Casa De Abuela.
